Pine to Palm 100
Sep 25, 2014
It has been one week since I ran the Pine to Palm 100. Now that the dust has settled,I have had some time to reflect on a truly amazing experience.
Pine to Palm is a point to point race starting in Williams, Oregon and ending in Ashland, Oregon. My training had gone pretty well, although I did not manage to get in the mileage I wanted in the last few months leading up to the race, and was hoping to be about 5lbs lighter. But that being said I felt rested and strong and relatively calm going in to my first 100 mile event. On September 11th, my partner Lesley and I flew down to southern Oregon. We arrived late into Medford and woke up early and grabbed our rental car. The day consisted of familiarizing ourselves with the area, driving to as many of the crew accessible aid stations along the course, going to the race meeting and picking up my race package. Our first goal was to find the start of the race. The directions said it was just outside of Williams on Rock Creek Road. After getting turned around a few times and our GPS making up roads that did not exist we found Williams and Rock creek Road. Williams is a very small town which I'm guessing has a population of less than 1000. Stopping at the general store (we were hoping to find directions to the package pickup site), two things struck me, first was the heat; it was only about 11 am and it was already getting hot. Second; this was remote, I felt like I was on the set of Deliverance 2. The website described the race as a "rugged and remote" race, well no kidding. I was starting to get butterflies in my stomach, thinking “what was I getting myself into?” We drove around, found the first three aid stations, and had some lunch,. By then it was time to get to package pickup and the racer briefing.
When we arrived I checked in got my race package and settled into a spot to sit and hear the race director Hal Koerner. I first encountered Hal at The Canadian Death Race in 2010, when he demolished the 125k course by running it in 12hours and 48 min, beating the old course record by an hour. Knowing a little about Hal’s accomplishments and reading his interviews, I knew he had us set up for a fun day tomorrow but also a tough course. After the race meeting Lesley and I drove back to Grants Pass, had some dinner and did some last minute shopping and prep before heading off to bed.
The race started at 6 am, we were on the road by 4:45am. As we approached the race start there was a line of cars headed the same direction. We parked at the base of Rock Creek Road and I got ready. We made our was up the road, which seemed to go on forever. As we approached the race start I realized I forgot to put my watch on. It was only about ten minutes to race start!! Lesley raced back and grabbed my watch. I started walking back down the road to meet her halfway. Hal passed me and yelled out to everyone "less than 5min to race start". Now I was getting a little anxious to find Lesley and get back to the start ( I also had not pinned my number on since they had run out of pins). I found Lesley and we made it back to the start. I was on the side of the road by the start line talking to Lesley and all of a sudden runners started cheering and hollering and heading out. I gave Lesley a quick hug and shoved my race number into my pocket and ran off. Not exactly the start I was looking for.
This was my first 100 mile event and I wanted to treat it that way, meaning no real expectations except finish the race, try to enjoy it as much as I can, manage the heat (forecasted for 35), and as the day progressed, if I was close to finishing under 24 hours, try to make that happen.
The first ten miles we ran up Greyback Mountain from about 2000ft to just over 7000ft. I settled into a comfortable run as the grade was not too bad. I made sure that my breathing was comfortable. After about 3 miles on the road we hit the trail. This was a single track switchback that wound its way up the mountain. The course markings were few and far between and as things spread out on the first climb I found myself alone on the course and we started to descend. Downhill has never been my strength and I have been working on it through the summer. I ran comfortably on the down, almost missing one turn. We hit the road. I was running behind Becky Kirschenmann who ended up crushing the course coming in second overall, she soon stopped asking if we missed a turn. I did n’t think we had so we kept going and she gave me a bit of advice for the day since this was her second P2P. We soon came to the aid station, but were greeted with news that we had missed a turn. Shoot! Only 10% done and I've already gone off course? How am I going to fare at night? Luckily, the volunteer told us it was no big deal since it was about the same distance. So I filled my water bottle and was on my way. As the temperature had not crept up too far, I wanted to hold a steady pace while it was still cool. I made my way to mile 28, which was the first crew accessible aid station,called Seattle Bar. Always great to see a familiar face at an aid station, Lesley helped me fill up with water, gel and cookie supplies, and I was off to Stein Butte.
Reading blogs from previous years, Stein Butte is one of the nasty sections on the course - long, uphill, hot and exposed. I chose to hike this since it was getting hot, and was not sure what I was in for. As I ran uphill I passed a few runners. Eventually someone moving fast came up behind me. As he got close mentioned that he was not in the race, just a crew member for another runner trying to get a run in. I tucked in behind him and used him as a pace for a bit.. After about 10min I could not hold onto him so I had to let him go. At this point I thought the climb was over and was running on top of the butte (American term for a large hill with a flat top) to the aid station, but it just never seemed to come. I recall in the blogs I read writers commenting that this section was longer than advertised (7 instead of 5 miles) and I would have to agree. I finally arrived at the aid station. It was dry but thankfully the temperature was still not that hot due to the California forest fires. However,but my lungs were taking a bit of a beating. I chatted with the volunteers at the top and noticed how coarse my voice was. I headed off again to what I thought was a long downhill to the Squaw Lake aid station, but quickly discovered that I still had some climbing to do. Unexpected things can demoralize you, and not knowing the course that well, this climb sunk my spirits a little. Eventually the ascent gave way to a nice descent as I came towards Squaw Lake. Lesley was there. I sat down for a moment and hopped in the lake to cool off before doing the 2 mile loop around the lake. It was about here that I started having issues that lasted to the end of the race.
Finishing my loop around Squaw Lakes, and sitting down to enjoy some watermelon
As I left Squaw Lake and started downhill I was moving easy since I just ate a some watermelon, chips and cookies. What I thought was my stomach (I am still not sure but I think it was my diaphragm) started to cramp just above my ribs. The cramp became pretty intense and I slowed to a walk. I was soon passed by a couple runners who checked in on me but kept going past me when I said I was fine. The cramping eventually eased and I started running again. About 5min later it started again and I slowed to a walk to allow it to settle. I eventually hit the climb up to Hanley Gap (mile 50). It was here where I noticed that, as I climbed I was not cramping and could push pretty decently, whereas the cramping was affecting me the most on the downhill. I made it through the main climb up to Hanley Gap and weaved my way along some single track on the side of the mountain. It was here that I felt the heat the most. The smoke had lifted a little more exposing the runners to the sun. I backed off the pace a little to save myself from the heat, stopping periodically in points where it was shaded resting for 30 seconds or so and then carrying on. Hanley Gap came quicker than I thought. I had made it in under 10 hours for 50 miles. Lesley was there and told me that I had to run a mile up to a summit, retrieve a flag, then run back down to the aid station. I dropped my pack and headed up. As the road was fairly steep I hiked most of it but felt strong. I reached the top and headed back down. As soon as I took a few strides my stomach/rib area began cramping again. As a result, the mile down consisted of me running 100metres and walking to ease the cramping. I made it back down to the aid station, sitting down to collect myself while eating chips and drinking ginger ale. I was at mile 52 at approximately 10 hrs and 15 mins. The realization that I had to do this all over again set in.. In addition, I was worried the cramping would continue to get worse in my abdomen and I would have to drop from the race.
Retrieving a flag, Squaw Lake in the background
I headed out from Hanley Gap walking - essentially just trying to settle myself and hopefully get moving a little quicker shortly. Over the next 8 miles the cramping would ease for periods of time allowing me to run and then would tighten again forcing me to walk for a bit to calm things down. I hit the mile 8 aid station with a welcome surprise. Lesley was there waiting for me to cheer me on. This wasn't an official crew station but was on the same road that she would take up to Dutchmen’s Peak (mile 67 and the official crew spot). I talked with her a bit and ate some cooked potatoes cooked in salt and a few corn chips. I was still taking gels but it was starting to get more and more difficult to convince myself to have one.From there I started the 5 miles up to Dutchmen’s Peak and was able to get into a bit of a rhythm, I felt strong hiking and was even able run for short bursts. The sun was starting to set and I took a moment with a guy who jumped out of his truck to take a picture - it was an amazingly beautiful site. The climb to Dutchmen’s took me to almost 7500ft of elevation. At about 3.5 miles I could see the aid station and hear the music blaring across the valley. I got to the top quickly, grabbed a couple more potatoes since they seemed to sit well with me the last time and headed back down to where the crews were and where Lesley would be. I sat again for a few minutes though I wanted to spend an hour. Two things got me up and going again, Les’ encouragement and the fact that I was getting cold. I got to my feet and left for the last crew accessible aid station at mile 74.
The view on the way up Dutchmen's Peak
The first few miles from Dutchmen’s were a bit of a gong show. First, I got the hiccups and had to stop and sit to get rid of them. Then I missed a turn, but realized quickly after hitting a dead end. After all that, my right contact popped out of my eye forcing me to stop, wet it with a little bit of saliva and put it back in. During this time, I got a little recharge and was moving at a decent pace. Unfortunately, the aid station just never seemed to come. There was a sign when I left Dutchmen’s that said it was 7 miles to the next aid. I checked my watch and saw that I was two hours in already yet pretty sure that I was not moving as slow as 3.5 miles an hour. Finally, I came off the single track into Long John Saddle aid station (mile 74). In other reports that I’ve read,runners have commented that their Garmins were reading 9+ miles for this section of the course, so I felt a little better knowing that I was not hallucinating nor moving that badly.
I sat with Lesley for the last time on the course - he next time she would see me would be the finish line. I filled my one pocket with animal crackers and the others with gels. I also did a little math. I had given myself about 8 hours to get to the finish line in under 24 hours. I was in good spirits at this point, was moving well, and was feeling good. Just a marathon left, right? Oh yeah, and one minor 2000ft climb called Wagner Butte. No big deal! I left into the darkness and headed down the road. Despite feeling so great at the aid station, the next section turned out to be my lowest point in the race. I had 6 miles of rolling downhill road to mile 80. This road seemed to go on forever and I could not get my legs going. It was at this point that my mind started playing tricks on me. I was convinced for a while that I had missed a turn and was off course. The shadows in the trees were starting to look more and more like animals stalking me. I was in a funk and could not get out. At one point I sat down on the side of the road to rest and try to get myself together, but a crack coming from the woods brought me to my feet with a handful of gravel and I took off. I'm sure it was my imagination but at least it got me up and moving again. I finally came up to the aid station running the 6 miles alone in the dark realizing more clearly why people use pacers at the end of the race. I ate a few potatoes again and left the aid station. As I was hiking up the trail I came across a large stump. I sat down turned my headlamp off and collected myself. 5 miles up.15 miles down. Finish line. And so I began the long hike up. I welcomed the arrival of a couple of other runners catching up to me as it was nice to have some company and the security of knowing that I was going the right way. I made it up to the top of Wagner Butte, where we had to retrieve a flag atop of a large pile of boulders. I made it to the top, grabbed my flag, and looked around. The lights of Ashland shone in the distance - the finish line was in sight!
The way back down was tough - lots of rocky sections and roots ( I don't know how many times I caught my foot or tripped but my big black toenail can recall). The last three miles of downhill to mile 90 was tough. It was a steep switchback of loose dirt and fallen trees to climb over. This was another section that I wanted to be done. Mile 90 aid was a welcome site. I knew I was going to finish the race, regardless of time. I ate one more potato filled my water bottle and took off. The last section was mostly downhill and I started off running. The cramping continued but was at a tolerable level. Running along I figured I would get passed a couple of times on the last little bit, since my weakest aspect is the downhill. I was managing to hold about 10-11 min miles on the flats and between 9-10 min miles on the down. Soon enough I heard the scuffing of feet behind me. He was moving well and too fast for me to hold pace with him so I let him go. The road hit a fork and a wonderful sign appeared - 4 miles to the finish. I glanced at my watch:22 hrs and 35 min. I was going to get this done and below 24 hours! The road turned to trail - a nice single track (so I thought). My stomach cramped up again and I had to stop and sit on a stump. As I got up there was a runner and his pacer motoring towards me. I began to run, but they were FLYING!!! It was one of the lead runners early on who I saw up a Dutchmen’s with his head in his hands. I was glad to see that he was doing better and finishing the race. The trail was filled with ruts and dips and my headlamp seemed to be dying out. I had a heck of a time maintaining a good pace without tripping. Thankfully, the rough trail eventually gave way to road and a sign stating1 mile to the finish. The road down to the finish was steep, but I was happy to be off the rutted trail. . I had turned my headlamp off when I got into town, so when I rounded the corner towards the finish line no one initially realized there was a runner coming in for the finish. I saw Hal jump out of his car and rush over to the finish line to greet me. Lesley was sitting behind the finish and jumped up to cheer my last few steps into the finish. My time was 23 hours and 12 mins - good enough for 17th place. I was and still am really happy with the outcome for my first 100 mile race.
Each time I run a ultra, I feel it is a learning experience for the next one. I am still not sure what caused my abdomen cramping - maybe the heat, possibly breathing in smoky air for 23+ hours, or maybe stomach cramps from poor digestion. Hopefully I can figure this out for my next event. I will start playing a little more with fruit and some starchy veggies on my long runs and pre-goal race events. I would also like to incorporate a few more speed workouts, as I feel they will help my downhill shortfalls.
I usually do not write in depth about my racing. I wrote about this race for a few reasons. First, I note that many people have the belief that ultra running is a crazy life threatening event. Unfortunate events do happen and plans can fall off the rails, but with proper training and preparation, an ultra is a safe and rewarding experience. Second, I want to give you an idea of why I do this. It is for the adventure - I get to explore new trails and new towns and meet hundreds of other runners. There were 200 racers and countless volunteers on the course all after the same goal and all looking out for each other. Every ultrarunner that I I met was pushing to his or her own individual goal, but we all looked out for each other along the way.
As always I would like to thank the race organizers, and race director Hal for putting on a great event. As well ,all the volunteers for helping mark the course and for working the aid stations. Lastly, Lesley, thank you for going on this adventure with me, for your support and encouragement, and for braving some dark sketchy roads to the aid stations.
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